The grape varieties you should be drinking from Canada

Nov 5

Young, emerging wine regions are often guilty of emulating. Ever heard the following when visiting a Canadian winery?

Burgundy style Pinot Noir
Bordeaux style Blend
Champagne style sparkling
Rhone style Syrah
Provence style rosé

…..shall I go on?

Canada has really only been making quality wine for around 40 years. Prior to that, it was mostly a bunch of bulk wine and a whole lot of unremarkable hybrids.

Until recently, the flag of “diversity” was proudly flown - a proverbial patting on the back for upwards of 80+ varieties planted in some regions alone (here’s looking at you Okanagan).

Many of these varieties have been planted in climes otherwise thought to be too cold, too wet, or too far north, pushing them to their extremes and making it all the more challenging to compete qualitatively from a global perspective.

What I hear all too often from Canadian wine professionals is the keen desire for an identity - what are we really known for?

Yes, you’ll likely always see producers forcing their vineyards to bear them with styles (Appassimento from Niagara, anyone?) all meant to pander to demographics that demand nothing but.

If you’re keen to know where Canada really excels, here’s a foray into varieties that thrive in multiple regions across the nation.

Chardonnay

Pushing the envelope of what Chardonnay can do, these producers are showcasing the delicacy and complexity of the variety, allowing the expression of place to really shine through. Time to leave the ABC club, folks. (anything but chardonnay)

Regions of note: Jordan Station, Hillier, Canning, Okanagan Falls

Producers to look out for: Trail, Blomidon, Mason Vineyard, Vignoble Camy

Pinot Gris

Stop thinking of Santa Margherita and your Aunt Bev. Take note - Pinot Gris will (and already is) emerging as a variety to be reckoned with in Canada - and specifically on Vancouver island - displaying nuance, minerality and texture.

Regions of note: Cowichan Valley, Saltspring Island, Fraser Valley

Producers to look out for: Emandare, Kutatás, Whispering Horse

Riesling

Stylistically, this variety behaves vastly different from east to west - be sure to try both to really garner an understanding of what it is capable of. From linear and lean to voluptuous and tender - it’s a variety with multiple personalities.

Regions of note: East Kelowna, Okanagan Falls, Wolfville

Producers to watch out for: Martin’s Lane, Synchromesh, Benjamin Bridge

Gamay

A formerly non-serious grape thanks to the likes of Beaujolais Nouveau and its accompanying day of celebration, in recent decades has shown to be a variety to take note of with purity of fruit, intoxicating perfume, and a beguiling lightness.

Regions of note: Creemore, Beamsville, Okanagan Falls

Producers to watch out for: Rosewood, Blue Mountain

Cabernet Franc

This ugly duckling seems to have finally shed its bad reputation. All the intensity with none of the body of its clunkier counterpart, Cabernet Sauvignon.

Regions of note: Naramata Bench, Okanagan Falls, Vineland

Producers to watch out for: Nichol, Else, Tawse

CRUSHABLE